A small hobby rabbitry — 4 to 12 does — is one of the highest-return homestead projects you can run. Low housing cost, fast turnover, meat and fibre income, and the learning curve is short. This guide covers the first three months, from pre-purchase planning to first kindling, for someone who's never raised rabbits before.
Before you buy rabbits
Plan housing first, rabbits second. A stressed rabbit in a cramped setup won't breed. Each adult doe needs at least a 30"×36"×18" hutch. Bucks can be smaller (24"×24"). Plan for 50% more cages than your starting herd so you can separate litters at weaning.
Breed selection
- New Zealand White — commercial meat breed, fast growth, docile. Good first breed.
- Californian — meat breed, crosses well with NZW, slightly smaller.
- Satin — smaller, good for fibre or niche pet market.
- Flemish Giant — crosses with meat breeds for bigger carcass, but slower and eats more.
- Avoid dwarfs and angoras for meat production — different goals, different husbandry.
Month 1 — setup and acquisition
- Build or buy hutches. Wire floors with pull-out trays are easiest to clean. Insulate the nest-box end if you're in a cold region.
- Set up watering. 1L water bottles work for 1-3 rabbits. For larger operations, plumb a gravity-fed line with nipple drinkers.
- Buy breeding stock. Start with 2-4 does and 1 buck, all unrelated if possible. Source from a breeder with rabbit-specific pedigrees and a clean herd (no mites, no snuffles).
- Start rabbits on pellets + hay. Transition slowly from whatever the breeder fed to your chosen feed. Sudden switches cause diarrhea.
Month 2 — acclimation and health
- Handle each rabbit daily — scruff-and-support, never by the ears.
- Check ears for mites weekly. Dark waxy buildup = ear mite infection, treat with ivermectin.
- Monitor poop. Clean, round, consistent droppings mean the rabbit is healthy. Diarrhea or no droppings within 12 hours is an emergency.
- Introduce the buck to the doe's cage for breeding — never the reverse. Does defend their territory.
Month 3 — first kindling
- Day 28 of pregnancy: add nest box with clean straw or hay.
- Day 31: expect kindling. Doe will pull fur from her chest and belly to line the nest. Don't disturb for 24 hours.
- Day 1 postpartum: count kits. Remove any dead ones. Check for milk on the doe's underside (wet fur).
- Week 3-4: kits leave the nest. Add a low water and pellet station they can reach.
- Week 5-6: wean — separate kits from doe. Does can be rebred at this point.
Common mistakes
- Underestimating heat. Rabbits tolerate cold well but die at over 28°C. Shade is non-negotiable in summer.
- Overcrowding weanlings. Fighting and disease spread fast when cages are too full.
- Dirty water. Rabbits refuse dirty water and dehydrate quickly. Scrub bottles weekly.
FAQ
How long until first sale?
Kits reach processing weight (2.5-3 kg) around 10-12 weeks. So roughly 4 months from first breeding to first sale.
How many does per buck?
One buck can service 5-10 does. Don't overwork young bucks — 2 breedings per week max for the first few months.
